Ohrid, Macedonia

We arrived in Ohrid just as the temperatures began to climb again after the welcome lull in Pristina. Annoying for us, but much appreciated by the hordes of sun worshippers. And I do mean hordes—Ohrid was absolutely bursting at the seams with tourists. But with a gorgeous old town, a pristine lake, and stunning views all around, it’s easy to see why.

After our comparatively restful time in Pristina, we hit the ground running in Ohrid. That extra downtime gave us just enough energy to cram a lot into a short stay—though kicking things off with a few beers and no dinner probably wasn’t our best idea.

On our first full day, we explored the old bazaar street and old town, as well as Samuel’s Fortress, the Church of Saint John, the Church of Hagia Sophia, and the Ancient Macedonian Theatre of Ohrid. The sights were conveniently lined up along a logical walking route. We started at the Church of Hagia Sophia, which featured beautifully aged frescoes that, thankfully, hadn’t been over-restored.

From there, we climbed up the hill, winding through cobbled streets, past the ancient theatre (more on that later), and up to Samuel’s Fortress. The fortress offered incredible panoramic views of the area—along with crowds of sweaty, overheated tourists. It was a hot day, and we were very grateful for our trusty mini Chinese fans to keep us cool as we went.

After descending the hill and passing yet another church, we reached the Church of Saint John, perched dramatically above the lake in one of the most iconic settings in Ohrid.

The walk back to town was… interesting. Yes, let’s use that word again: hordes. Hordes of sunbathers packed into every available inch of space between the cliffs and the water. How anyone finds joy in being squashed together like half-naked (or more) sardines, slowly roasting in the sun, is beyond us. But hey—each to their own.

That evening, we’d read there was going to be a concert at the ancient theatre by the Macedonian Philharmonic Orchestra. Not wanting to miss the chance to experience something truly unique, we made our way up at sunset and joined the locals sitting on the back terraces above the main seating area. The concert was supposed to start at 9… but after a chaotic attempt to seat ticket holders, followed by what felt like an eternity of self-indulgent speeches by dignitaries who clearly loved the sound of their own voices, the music finally began at 10.

Now, we’re glad we went. But wow—those songs were something else. And not in a good way. The whole performance lasted only 45 minutes, and about 20 minutes of it sounded like a B-grade movie soundtrack that couldn’t decide whether it wanted to be Star Trek or Star Wars. The confused glances from the crowd and the half-hearted, “uh… bravo?” applause told us we weren’t the only ones feeling that way.

The next day, we mostly wandered around the town, got lost a few times, and caffeinated ourselves generously. The highlight was a sunset cruise on the lake. Despite being wedged between two large groups, we had a great time soaking in the scenery and sipping on a few drinks. That said, being surrounded by English speakers again—after years of hearing mostly Chinese—was a bit of a reverse culture shock.

Ohrid was a beautiful place, though definitely too crowded for our taste. One of those destinations we’d love to revisit—but only in winter, when the crowds have thinned and the pace has slowed.

Next stop: Bitola, Macedonia’s second-largest city.